What is Organic Wine? | Understanding Organic Wine
Organic wine began to gain traction in the 1970s, largely spurred by growing environmental awareness. The United States and the European Union, however, have different criteria for organic certification. In the U.S., organic wines cannot contain added sulfites, while the EU permits some sulfites but restricts other winemaking practices. Organic grape farming emphasizes soil health and natural pest management, utilizing cover crops, beneficial insects, and avoiding synthetic chemicals. In the cellar, organic winemaking limits additives and often relies on indigenous yeasts.
Challenges in organic winemaking include ongoing debates over the use of sulfites, the application of copper as a fungicide, and the costs associated with certification. The industry also faces the need to adapt to climate change and navigate varying consumer perceptions. Future growth in organic wine may involve the adoption of new technologies and expansion into emerging markets. Overall, organic wine represents a shift towards more sustainable winemaking practices, blending traditional techniques with modern ecological insights. Now, let's explore the history of organic wine and farming in greater detail.
A Brief History of Organic Wine
While the concept of organic farming has roots in the early 20th century, its application to viticulture and winemaking gained significant momentum in the 1970s. Early adopters of organic viticulture were often motivated by environmental concerns and a desire to produce wines that truly reflect their terroir. In the United States, organic farming principles were first applied to vineyards in California during the 1960s and 1970s, with pioneers like Paul Dolan at Fetzer Vineyards and John Williams at Frey Vineyards leading the way in large-scale organic practices.
In Europe, the organic wine movement gained momentum in the 1980s, with countries like France, Italy, and Germany taking the lead. The Alsace region of France played a particularly influential role, with winemakers such as Pierre Frick and Jean-Pierre Frick adopting organic and biodynamic practices. Organic farming, which prohibits the use of chemicals and additives in the vineyard, became increasingly popular. However, when it comes to wine, the picture is more complex.
While the principles of organic farming are clear, the definition of organic wine varies depending on the country of origin. There are, in fact, two distinct definitions of organic wine: one in the United States and another within the European Union. To understand these differences, we need to examine the two key phases of winemaking: growing grapes in the vineyard and transforming them into wine in the cellar.
Vineyards vs. Cellar
To produce great wine, it is essential to start with high-quality grapes, and this begins in the vineyard. Farmers who grow grapes organically must adhere to strict regulations regarding the substances used in the vineyard—this is true in both Europe and the U.S.
The primary difference, however, lies in how organically grown grapes are vinified. In the United States, to label a wine as organic, it must not only be made from organically grown grapes but also be free of added sulfites upon bottling. In contrast, the European Union has less stringent regulations on how organically grown grapes should be transformed into wine.
The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), the agency responsible for organic certifications in the U.S., also oversees specific aspects of the winemaking process that occurs in the cellar.
Organic winemaking extends the principles of organic farming into the cellar. Key aspects include:
- Yeast: Many organic winemakers prefer indigenous yeasts for fermentation, although certified organic commercial yeasts are permitted.
- Additives: Only a limited number of additives are allowed, and they must be derived from organic sources when available.
- Sulfites: While the U.S. and EU have different regulations, both significantly restrict sulfite use compared to conventional winemaking.
- Fining and filtration: Many organic winemakers prefer minimal intervention, often using bentonite clay or plant-based fining agents when necessary.
- Oak treatment: If used, oak must be from sustainably managed forests and cannot be treated with prohibited substances.
USA Definition of Organic Wine
This excerpt from the USDA website is crucial:
"Before wine can be sold as organic, both the growing of the grapes and their conversion to wine must be certified. This includes making sure grapes are grown without synthetic fertilizers and in a manner that protects the environment and preserves the soil.
Other agricultural ingredients that go into the wine, such as yeast, also have to be certified organic. Any non-agricultural ingredients must be specifically allowed on the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances and can’t exceed 5% of the total product.
And, while wine naturally produces some sulfur dioxide (sulfites), they can’t be added to organic wine."
Only wine that meets the strict criteria established by the USDA, including the "no added sulfur dioxide" requirement, can be labeled as organic wine. If a wine only meets the "made with organic grapes" standard, it cannot be sold as organic wine.
Key points of the U.S. organic wine regulations include:
- Organic grapes: Grapes must be grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides.
- Sulfite restrictions: "Organic wine" must be made without added sulfites. Wines made from organic grapes that contain added sulfites can be labeled "made with organic grapes" but cannot use the USDA organic seal.
- Certification: Vineyards and wineries must be certified by a USDA-accredited certifying agent.
- Labeling categories:
- "100% Organic": All ingredients must be certified organic and no sulfites may be added.
- "Organic": At least 95% of ingredients must be certified organic and no sulfites may be added.
- "Made with Organic Grapes": At least 70% of ingredients must be certified organic, and sulfites may be added up to 100 parts per million.
European Union Definition of Organic Wine
In the European Union, organic wine must be made from organic grapes and follow these winemaking practices, as outlined by the European Commission:
- Maximum sulfite content is set at 100 mg per liter for red wine (150 mg/l for conventional).
- Maximum sulfite content is set at 150 mg/l for white/rosé (200 mg/l for conventional).
There can be a 30 mg/l differential when the residual sugar content is more than 2g per liter.
In the European Union, for a wine to be labeled and sold as organic, the amount of sulfur dioxide must be lower than in conventional wines, although its addition is not prohibited.
Key aspects of EU organic wine regulations include:
- Organic grapes: As in the U.S., grapes must be grown without synthetic chemicals.
- Sulfite restrictions: Sulfite limits are set at 100 mg/L for red wine and 150 mg/L for white and rosé wines, with slightly higher limits for wines with residual sugar content.
- Prohibited practices: Certain physical processes like partial dealcoholization, electrodialysis, and thermal treatments over 70°C are prohibited.
- Allowed additives: A restricted list of additives and processing aids is permitted, including yeast, egg white proteins, and pea proteins.
- Labeling: Wines meeting these standards can be labeled "Organic Wine" and display
Organic In-Conversion and Practicing Organic
Certified organic wine is widely available in the United States, along with a plethora of organic food products. To complete the picture, we would like to mention two sub-categories that are often overlooked and slightly more difficult to identify.
- Organic in-conversion: Wine producers who are in the process of becoming certified organic.
- Practicing organic: Wine producers who are not certified organic but nevertheless practice organic farming.
Organic grape farming relies on a holistic approach to vineyard management that prioritizes soil health, biodiversity, and natural pest control methods.
Key practices include:
- Soil management: Cover crops, compost, and green manures are used to maintain soil fertility and structure.
- Pest and disease control: Beneficial insects, pheromone confusion, and plant-based preparations (like neem oil) are used instead of synthetic pesticides.
- Weed control: Mechanical cultivation, mulching, and cover crops are used instead of herbicides.