Lombardy | Italian Wine Regions

Introduction

Lombardy, or Lombardia in Italian, is a diverse and dynamic wine region in northern Italy. While often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors like Piedmont and Tuscany, Lombardy boasts a rich viticultural heritage and produces a wide array of high-quality wines. From the sparkling wines of Franciacorta to the bold reds of Valtellina, Lombardy offers wine enthusiasts a fascinating journey through varied terroirs and styles.

Geography and Climate

Lombardy's wine-growing areas are scattered across a diverse landscape that includes the Alps in the north, the Po River Valley in the south, and numerous lakes, including Lake Garda and Lake Como. This geographical diversity results in a range of microclimates and soil types, each contributing to the unique character of the region's wines.

The climate varies significantly across Lombardy. The northern alpine areas experience cool temperatures and significant diurnal temperature variations, ideal for growing varieties like Nebbiolo. The central hills and southern plains have a more continental climate with warm summers and cold winters. The large lakes moderate temperatures in nearby vineyards, creating suitable conditions for a variety of grape types.

History

Wine production in Lombardy dates back to ancient times, with evidence of viticulture during the Etruscan and Roman periods. Throughout the Middle Ages and Renaissance, monasteries and noble families played crucial roles in developing and refining winemaking techniques in the region.

The modern era of Lombardy's wine industry began in the mid-20th century. The introduction of DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) regulations in the 1960s helped establish quality standards and recognition for the region's wines. The creation of the Franciacorta DOCG in 1995 marked a significant milestone, establishing Lombardy as a producer of world-class sparkling wines.

Key Grape Varieties

Lombardy cultivates a wide range of grape varieties, reflecting its diverse terroir:

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir: The primary grapes used in Franciacorta's sparkling wines.
Nebbiolo (locally known as Chiavennasca): The star grape of Valtellina, producing elegant, age-worthy reds.
Barbera: Widely planted, particularly in Oltrepò Pavese, producing fruity, acidic reds.
Croatina: Used in the production of Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese.
Trebbiano di Lugana: The primary grape in the white wines of Lugana, near Lake Garda.

Famous Wines

Lombardy is home to several renowned wines and wine styles:

Franciacorta: Italy's premier sparkling wine, made in the traditional method, often compared to Champagne.
Valtellina Superiore and Sforzato di Valtellina: Nebbiolo-based wines from the terraced vineyards of Valtellina. Sforzato is made using partially dried grapes for increased concentration.
Oltrepò Pavese: A diverse area producing sparkling wines, as well as still reds from Pinot Nero, Barbera, and Croatina.
Lugana: Crisp, mineral-driven white wines made from Trebbiano di Lugana grapes near Lake Garda.
Valcalepio: Red blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the hills near Bergamo.

Famous Producers

Lombardy is home to numerous renowned wine producers who have helped elevate the region's reputation in the wine world. Here are some of the most notable:

Ca' del Bosco: One of the pioneers of Franciacorta, known for their high-quality sparkling wines and innovative winemaking techniques.
Bellavista: Another leading Franciacorta producer, creating elegant and complex sparkling wines.
Nino Negri: A historic winery in Valtellina, producing outstanding Nebbiolo-based wines, including the renowned Sfursat 5 Stelle.
Ar.Pe.Pe.: A family-run estate in Valtellina, known for their traditional approach and long-aged Nebbiolo wines.
Cavalleri: A Franciacorta producer focusing on organic viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking.
Guido Berlucchi: The winery credited with creating the first Franciacorta in the 1960s, still a benchmark producer today.
Conte Vistarino: A historic estate in Oltrepò Pavese, known for their Pinot Noir and traditional method sparkling wines.
Ca' Maiol: A leading producer of Lugana wines, showcasing the potential of the Trebbiano di Lugana grape.
Mamete Prevostini: A family winery in Valtellina producing elegant Nebbiolo wines from high-altitude vineyards.
Monte Rossa: An innovative Franciacorta producer known for their premium cuvées and long-aged sparkling wines.

What about Natural Wine?

In recent years, Lombardy has also seen a growing movement towards natural and low-intervention winemaking. Notable natural wine producers in the region include Elisabetta Foradori, who, though based in Trentino, has vineyards in Valtellina producing biodynamic Nebbiolo; Divella, a small producer in Franciacorta making natural sparkling wines; and Castello di Stefanago in Oltrepò Pavese, known for their organic and biodynamic wines. These producers, along with others like Casè and Martilde, are part of a new wave of winemakers in Lombardy focusing on minimal intervention, indigenous yeasts, and often eschewing added sulfites, thereby offering a different expression of the region's terroir.

Lombardy Cuisine

Lombardy's cuisine is as rich and diverse as its wines, reflecting the region's varied landscape from the Alps to the Po Valley. The cuisine is characterized by hearty, flavorful dishes that pair beautifully with local wines. Lombardy is known for its use of rice, polenta, and a variety of meats and cheeses. The region's gastronomic tradition has been influenced by its history as a crossroads of trade and cultures.

Some typical dishes and products of Lombardy include:

Risotto alla Milanese: A creamy saffron-flavored risotto, often served as a side dish to Ossobuco.
Ossobuco: Braised veal shanks, typically served with gremolata and risotto.
Cotoletta alla Milanese: A breaded and fried veal cutlet.
Polenta: A staple in northern Italian cuisine, often served with meat stews or cheese.
Pizzoccheri: Buckwheat pasta from Valtellina, usually served with potatoes, greens, and local cheese.
Bresaola: Air-dried, salted beef originating from Valtellina.
Gorgonzola: A famous blue cheese named after the town of Gorgonzola near Milan.
Panettone: A sweet bread loaf traditionally enjoyed during Christmas and New Year.
Mostarda: A spicy candied fruit condiment, often served with boiled meats.
Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano: While not exclusive to Lombardy, these famous hard cheeses are produced in parts of the region.

These rich culinary traditions complement Lombardy's wines beautifully. For instance, the robust Nebbiolo-based wines of Valtellina pair excellently with local dishes like pizzoccheri or brasato (beef braised in red wine), while the crisp Franciacorta sparkling wines make a perfect aperitif or accompaniment to lighter dishes and local cheeses.

Wine Tourism

Lombardy offers excellent opportunities for wine tourism, often combined with the region's rich cultural and natural attractions. The Franciacorta area, with its proximity to Milan and Lake Iseo, is particularly popular among wine enthusiasts. Visitors can tour the modern wineries and enjoy tastings of the area's renowned sparkling wines.

The Valtellina region provides a more rugged and dramatic backdrop for wine tourism. Here, visitors can explore the steep, terraced vineyards and taste the area's distinctive Nebbiolo-based wines. The Oltrepò Pavese, often called "the Tuscany of the North" due to its rolling hills and vineyards, offers a picturesque setting for wine tours and tastings.

Many wineries throughout Lombardy offer tours and tastings, allowing visitors to experience firsthand the diversity of the region's wines and winemaking traditions. The proximity to major cities like Milan also makes Lombardy's wine country easily accessible for day trips or weekend getaways.

Traditions and Curious Facts

Lombardy, with its rich history and diverse landscape, is home to many unique traditions and fascinating facts, some of which are closely tied to its wine culture:

San Colombano al Lambro: This small town is home to Lombardy's only DOC wine entirely within the region's borders, often referred to as "Milan's vineyard" due to its proximity to the city.
Sfursat or Sforzato Wine: This unique winemaking technique in Valtellina involves partially drying grapes before fermentation, similar to Amarone. The name is said to come from the Italian word "sforzare" (to force), referring to the concentrated flavors.
Canneto Pavese's Bell Tower: This town in Oltrepò Pavese boasts a bell tower with a bunch of grapes sculpted on top instead of a cross, highlighting the importance of viticulture to the local culture.
Groppello Grape: This rare native variety is almost exclusively grown around Lake Garda and is a key component in Valtenesi rosé wines.
Valtellina's Terraced Vineyards: These spectacular terraces, some of which date back to Roman times, cover about 2,500 kilometers of dry stone walls, making them one of the largest terraced areas in Europe.
Leonardo da Vinci's Vineyard: The famous polymath owned a vineyard in Milan, gifted to him by the Duke of Milan. It has been recently restored and opened to the public.
Vino di Ghiaccio (Ice Wine): While not traditional, some producers in the Alpine areas of Lombardy have begun experimenting with ice wine production in recent years.

These traditions and facts not only add to the cultural richness of Lombardy but also demonstrate the deep-rooted connection between the region's history, landscape, and its wine production. They offer wine enthusiasts unique experiences and stories that go beyond the taste of the wine itself.

Conclusion

Lombardy's wine region, while sometimes overlooked, offers a rich tapestry of wines that reflect the area's diverse geography and long winemaking history. From the world-class sparkling wines of Franciacorta to the age-worthy Nebbiolo-based reds of Valtellina, Lombardy produces wines of remarkable quality and character. The region's commitment to both tradition and innovation ensures that it will continue to be a fascinating destination for wine lovers seeking to explore the depth and breadth of Italian wines.